Just backing up a bit to some of your previous thoughts and questions....
twenglish 1 wrote:..... i know there is more that can go wrong in the lock but do you think it is safe to assume the lock is opperational?
Personally, I'd say it's definitely worth a shot. We know the lever arm is in working order. We know the
wheels seem to be picking up correctly. As you said, there is more that can go wrong... but I guess
you'll find that out very quickly after you feel that fence drop into the gates. And even if it doesn't
open at that point, I'll bet you'd still be pretty damn excited! lol
twenglish 1 wrote:..... has a small keylock in the dial, my guess is this keeps it from turning?.....
That's right. Just an additional security feature. You'd turn the dial to zero,
insert & turn the key, and the dial will lock in position so it cannot be rotated.
twenglish 1 wrote:.....i am unsure if this is a thermal relocker or if it just releases if you try to dissasemble the lock by means of a hole drilled in the back.....
Many relockers are BOTH. They will engage if the cover plate is popped off...
OR... if exposed to extreme heat, the piece will melt allowing the pin to engage.
Looking over your graphs, I'd say your touch has progressively become lighter & more accurate. Very nice!
I'm sorry if you stated this, but these graphs... are they AWL or AWR?
I agree the areas around 20 and 60 are definitely intriguing
If you're going to run some test combos utilizing the 2-3 promising areas
you've found... remember the drive pins create rotational differences that
you have to take into account. (ie. L60 will be slightly different than R60).
Also, I want to take note of the biggest drop on some of your graphs....
it happens to be within your contact area. Taking readings within this
area can sometimes be tricky and give you incorrect results. Maybe
that's not the case here... or is it? Just thought I'd throw that out.