Mosler with CD120

[bitbuster]

Got a call from a guy last Friday saying his Mosler fire safe would not open even with using the correct combo.I tried it a few times when i arrived with no luck. Out comes the deadblow hammer after each number of the combo and it opens after the 2nd try. What we had was 'wheel drift', caused by a worn fly or a dirty mess in the wheel pack.It was the latter so I disassembled the lock and gave it a good cleaning. The lock is a Mosler CD120 mounted right handed with 3 mesh change wheels and driver in front. If you zoom in pic #7 you can see what the old combo was.Anyone...anyone? (newbies only,please). Look at pic #10 and you will see the external relocker. The end has a 'hook' in it. The hook will catch the through-bolt in the cam if the lock is punched inward and will deadlock the safe.Pic #9 shows the before and pic #8 shows the after. The plate in pic #8-#9 is beneath where the lock would be. Notice the cam in pic #12 and how it is skewed toward the back of the door. This is to make the cam punch attack much more difficult. (it can be done). This safe was made in late '50s or early '60s.The handle in pic #1 can be at 9 o'clock or 6 o'clock and opens CW.I changed the combo and also fixed the little 'flop' in the dial movement by turning the dial in one extra complete turn before putting the spline key back in. If anyone has Dave McOmie's safe books the safe is on page 176,Vol 1.

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[Oldfast]

Nice!

I work only with perfectly working locks that I've mounted. But I've been trying to learn more about
working with locks where something has gone wrong. Not much opportunity for me since I don't do
much outside of my home... so I've basically been 'creating' problems within some of my locks. lol

I've heard of using a deadblow hammer after dialing the entire combination.
But you were using it after dialing each number. Could you elaborate for me?

[jharveee]

Thanks for the show.
Is the first number the lowest of the three and on the first wheel? furthest from the drive cam.

[bitbuster]

The owner said that it would open sometimes and not other times even with original combo that he has used for years. That suggested to me that something internal was not right. And yes,I used to use the dead blow after entire combo was completed mainly to coax the fence to fall. 20 years ago I read in the 'tips' section of the National Locksmith of a 'smith who swore by this 'technique'. When the opportunity calls for this then I use it. After opening this safe and before any cleaning took place I dialed each number and then checked its position by removing the wheel pack and then seeing where the wheel gate was in relationship to the fence. I did this with each of the 3 wheels. In this case only the 2nd wheel lined up correctly with the gate. The 1st and 3rd wheels were each slightly off the mark either to the left or right. I then repeated the process and smacked the door above the dial after each dialed # and checked after each # and each gate was lined up properly to my surprise. This safe had been serviced by a 'smith about 2 years prior. He told the owner that the combo would be difficult to change. His service of the lock consisted of dousing the wheel pack with lubricant. The 'smith has since retired and in his defense I know he had medical issues and he may not have been physically capable of doing the needed work. The wheel pack was filthy with crud.
If the fence is even ever so slightly resting on the gate's edge it still may not fall. Coaxing it with a deadblow did the job for me. Whether it was a hit and miss or just luck.....it worked. This is my best explanation of my dealing with this safe.

[bitbuster]

jharveee you are correct.

[Oldfast]

Thanks for talking more on that. Appreciate it. You also answered the other thing
I was curious about, which was where you placed your strikes. Thanks again!