my new sargent and greenleaf vault lock

[CPT1911]

Wow, great work Femurat!

Looking forward to when you have this one mounted and start spinning. This one definitely looks like a group 2 version so I'm betting manipulation should be pretty straight forward!

I've been playing witha 4-wheel S&G 6731 recently and I really enjoy 4-wheel locks although they can be a bit fatiguing if you have to BF W1!

Good luck! Can't wait to see more!

[femurat]

http://www.time-master.com/products/gro ... quare-bolt


S&G 6535

Thanks for the link torontosafecracker. Even if it doesn't work I did a quick search on that site and found out the page you linked may be this one http://www.time-master.com/products/gro ... quare-bolt

Based on a manual I got from another forum member it should be a 6510.

Cheers

[femurat]

Hey CPT1911 I also have and like a S&G 6700 4 wheel lock. I remember it was not a big deal to count one more turn. I really hope I never have to brute force wheel 1, even with 3 wheels locks.

Cheers

[GWiens2001]

Femurat - you did the same thing as TSC - use the URL code to post the entire link!

[femurat]

But my link works since I didn't preview the post!

Cheers

[Oldfast]

Thanks for sharing this!! DAMN, I loved the picture sequence as you reassembled it. NICE!!

[femurat]

Some time ago I tried to make a steel key for the dial blocking lock. I didn't want to ruin the lock by impressioning it so I opened the lock and filed a flat piece of steel to match the six levers. It looked right but when I put the lock cover back it no longer worked. Looks like I filed down some position too much and/or I wasn't holding the key perpendicular to the levers when I took measurements. I was disappointed and put everything back in the drawer.

Recently had some time to play with this lock again and decided to make a temporary aluminium key just to be sure about its bittings. Once the key works I'll copy it on steel or, even better, brass. Here are the non working steel key and the aluminium blank I made.



I've inserted the blank and tried to turn and got some impression marks on the side. Those are somewhat related to the right bittings but it's not a good idea to file to those depths. For example the sixth lever doesn't require the key to be filed, but still marks it. You can see the mark on the finished key.
Since I had the lock disassembled I put back one lever at a time and filed just on that spot until the key turned freely and opened the lock. This way I could file and test one position at a time without the risk to file too much as I did with the steel key. I used a hacksaw to file down aluminium since it can easily clog files.

Here is the finished key next to the lock and on a ruler with cm and inches for my non metric friends.





I know the key looks very poorly made and I apologize for this. Keep in mind this is only a temporary key and I'm planning to make a better looking and longer lasting one. Don't hold your breath since I've got not much free time lately so it could take a while. But I do want to finish this project.

Cheers

[femurat]

I've cleaned all the parts with a polishing compound intended for car body. I find it leaves the metal clean, dry and protected. Next step is reassembling all the parts on a simple wooden stand.

Usually the dial has a delrin insert to make it turn smooth but this one doesn't.
Is the spline supposed to sit on the dial and lock itself, or should I include two ball bearings in the wooden stand?

Thanks

[femurat]

I haven't had time to play with locks in the last months. This huge and beautiful lock has been sitting on my desk, between other things. I recently bought some wood to finish this lock stand and now the glue is drying. I hope to finish it soon.

Cheers

[GWiens2001]

That is gonna be good, Femurat!

Gordon

[oldlock]

Hmm. that dial and ring look very very Chubb to me. It would make sense in a way as whenever Chubb used someone elses locks they would replace the dial insert with one with either no name or their own.

[femurat]

Hey oldlock, you may be right. I got the dial and dial ring and dial cover with a different spline, longer and thicker than this one. You can see it in the previous page. I had to modify the S&G spline to fit the dial locking gear. So this dial may not be S&G. I also got another screw with S&G embossed along with this no brand one, so it may be an S&G. Dunno. If it's not an S&G, since I got it from England, Chubb is the best bet.

Cheers

[Oldfast]

That is gonna be good, Femurat!

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[femurat]

So the glue dried and the stand looks good. I've sanded it and left natural wood like my others. Then assembled the lock. Looks good and works. I'm missing the two screws that hold the wheelpack in place. I'm also missing the two screws that hold the spyproof cover in place, must be some non metric size because the M4 don't enter and M3 is loose. I hate when a project is almost finished but I miss some small parts.

Cheers

[oldlock]

This gets more complex. The lock is S&G. The dial & ring are Chubb. The spy-proof assembly is John Tann (actually made by Kromer I think)