Fri Nov 19, 2010 3:48 am
Breakdown of a LSL Shrouded.. WARNING PICTURE INTENSIVE
This Is a picture breakdown of an LSL Shrouded Stainless Steel Padlock..
http://www.safeandlockstore.com/product ... dlock.html
The style of this lock is very similar to that of a Maxis.Watch LSA Pick and gut one below on Youtube..
I hope you don't mind that I linked to your vid of the Maxis LSA
Anyway.. moving on. Recently a gentlemen by the screen name Fredy came around and was discussing possible advancements to a current locking mechanism that his company produced. Having an interest in the product at hand I purchased one from the link above and it arrived quickly. I intend to display the mechanism of the lock as it stands so that we may all understand it and how to improve it. Also I will explain in semi-detail how this lock is completely disassembled. Enjoy
Nothing to special on the exterior.. Looks a lot like a big old shrouded padlock.
Here are a few more eye-candy shots anyway.
Views of the key.
Disassembly of lock. First uncrew the retaining screw inside the shackle seat. Let screw drop out and retainer nut drop from the bottom of the padlock. Allow the retaining plate to come off of the bottom. Expose the core of the lock.
Remove the core from the lock by just allowing it to fall out. Be careful of the small spring-loaded half-moon plates on the keyway of the core. These are easy to lose.
The core of the lock.
Unscrew the quarter turn-stop / retaining screw on the side of the core (T6 torx head driver needed)
You may now insert the key and turn a full 180º to dump the top pins through the re-pin holes on the bottom of the plug.
After which you can dump all the top pins and springs by removing the cylinder from the housing.
Now this is where this lock get a little interesting. Like a best IC core, this lock has a dual sleeve system working in it. This system, however, has nothing to do with a control key or removable core like device, Instead the inner sleeve acts as a floating ward that catches the deep cut tiny spool pins inside the lock. Then because the lock relies on using the pins themselves to tension the cylinder it forces you to pretty much manually reset the cylinder and start all over. See below for the picture tutorial of this security mechanism. By the way, to further explain this locking mechanism, I wish to point out the the hole on the side of the inner sleeve which matches up to the cylinder quarter-turn-stop / retaining screw is slightly more reamed out then diameter of the screw. This allows the inner sleeve to float just enough and therefore act as a floating ward to catch the deeply spooled driver pins.
Hope this helps.. Sorry bout all the pictures.. I wanted to be thorough.
Thanks Guys
Happy Picking,
Whizdumb
http://www.safeandlockstore.com/product ... dlock.html
The style of this lock is very similar to that of a Maxis.Watch LSA Pick and gut one below on Youtube..
I hope you don't mind that I linked to your vid of the Maxis LSA
Anyway.. moving on. Recently a gentlemen by the screen name Fredy came around and was discussing possible advancements to a current locking mechanism that his company produced. Having an interest in the product at hand I purchased one from the link above and it arrived quickly. I intend to display the mechanism of the lock as it stands so that we may all understand it and how to improve it. Also I will explain in semi-detail how this lock is completely disassembled. Enjoy
Nothing to special on the exterior.. Looks a lot like a big old shrouded padlock.
Here are a few more eye-candy shots anyway.
Views of the key.
Disassembly of lock. First uncrew the retaining screw inside the shackle seat. Let screw drop out and retainer nut drop from the bottom of the padlock. Allow the retaining plate to come off of the bottom. Expose the core of the lock.
Remove the core from the lock by just allowing it to fall out. Be careful of the small spring-loaded half-moon plates on the keyway of the core. These are easy to lose.
The core of the lock.
Unscrew the quarter turn-stop / retaining screw on the side of the core (T6 torx head driver needed)
You may now insert the key and turn a full 180º to dump the top pins through the re-pin holes on the bottom of the plug.
After which you can dump all the top pins and springs by removing the cylinder from the housing.
Now this is where this lock get a little interesting. Like a best IC core, this lock has a dual sleeve system working in it. This system, however, has nothing to do with a control key or removable core like device, Instead the inner sleeve acts as a floating ward that catches the deep cut tiny spool pins inside the lock. Then because the lock relies on using the pins themselves to tension the cylinder it forces you to pretty much manually reset the cylinder and start all over. See below for the picture tutorial of this security mechanism. By the way, to further explain this locking mechanism, I wish to point out the the hole on the side of the inner sleeve which matches up to the cylinder quarter-turn-stop / retaining screw is slightly more reamed out then diameter of the screw. This allows the inner sleeve to float just enough and therefore act as a floating ward to catch the deeply spooled driver pins.
Hope this helps.. Sorry bout all the pictures.. I wanted to be thorough.
Thanks Guys
Happy Picking,
Whizdumb
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Last edited by whizdumb on Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
Whizdumb81 wrote:You can't handle the DCAP
xe0 wrote:how about a peterson gov steel baseball bat so i can thwap motherfuckers
ecksdee wrote:To learn to pick locks is to learn how to speak a language spoken only in whispers and riddles.
http://www.youtube.com/user/HobbyPicker
Then, I have tried twice with JB Weld, but it (the JB weld) shears when you pick it and try to turn the plug. I never thought that would happen with JB, and the second time I even added iron filings as aggregate to strengthen it.
