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So many collectors have mastered the skill at making keys for classic MILLER, CHAMPION pancake padlocks, but few next to none, have claimed fame to opening a locked NEW CHAMPION padlock through a non-destructive decoding technique. For those who have purchased my book (thank you) http://www.blurb.com/b/6061788-the-extr ... -collector, the technique is described in my book. In this thread, I'm demonstrating a clever method for testing decoding data without wasting the finished steel key blank, which is time consuming to make. Brass has always been an issue because the material is too soft at the driver bit location, which is also bad for impression. But now, I have a solution! Notice the spring steel tension wrench that I introduced. The brass test key was skeltonized to make room for the tension wrench. Interesting, this lock (shown in the picture) did not mark the null cuts on the steel key like I have seen in the past on other NEW CHAMPION locks that I have decoded. Anyhow, this tension wrench implemention may improve impression when using brass stock. I wouldn't dare trying to impression a NEW CHAMPION padlock without a stronger material, but brass is ideal for marking tumblers. The combination is a win-win.

I recently bought from Lauren an antique lock with a key he made. The workmanship is impressive. I really can't complement him highly enough for his keymaking skills. Also I had no idea how much turning force that some antique padlock keys require until I actually laid my hands on one. I have a much better appreciation now as to why brass would be too soft in many cases.

I also ordered a copy of his book (link in his post above mine). I'd intended to post a review on the forum well before now but circumstances have pulled me away from being able to finish reading it at the moment. Hopefully I'll be able to get back to it soon.

And here is the finished key....



Works perfectly. No broken hasp spring either.

Amazing work as usual Lauren.

I am a proud owner of Lauren's book. This book needs to be in everyone's book collection whether you love antiques padlocks or plan to never have one. Aside from the book being filled with first hand knowledge of a huge variety of antique padlocks, Lauren also explains how to open and make keys for those locks along with revealing many of his secret tools that are needed but there is more, much more... stay tuned for my full review but in short this book is a must for many reason aside from the obvious reason of learning how to open antique padlocks.

MBI I am in the same boat with you in regard to the book review but what I have read so far is just brilliant. I am passed half point and have already started to document my thoughts so hopefully life will allow me a few moments to finish both and post a full review sometime this week or next.

Another beautifully executed project. Thanks for the pictures!

Last week, I picked up this NEW CHAMPION padlock without a key and in the locked position. This is the first model of this lock that I ever owned. This lock has rivet placement located slightly different than the other model that I own, causing me to open it in diffent manner. This particular lock, stamped "6 lever", is really a four lever lock. If you own my book you'll understand why, and I was able to determine this in just a few minutes. Because of the rivet placement I opened the lock using a modified technique. The prototype tool that I made for this lock was successfull and I will refine the finished tool in the near future. The tool and the exact process will not be made public at this time, sorry.

Simple lever,
Not very clever.
Only one ward,
I quickly got bored.
A nice lock on the outside,
A new key, finished with prided.



SIMMONS, No. 2. (2.155 INCHES TALL BY 1.645 INCHES WIDE)

A three lever lock, picked with hasp tension.
An open lock, left to impression.
Or, small L-wires may be gapped,
Taking measurements until each lever is mapped.
A key blank marked with black ink,
Revealing lever locations I think.
Each bit is cut, and then tested,
Turning the key, the lever stack nested.
The hasp will open with a strong snap,
Awaiting closure with just a light tap.



Yale and Towne Mfg. Co, No. 8 (bit cuts:.275,.275,.400 in.)

Wow, an artist and a poet.

Nice work and nice writeup, as usual!

A six lever lock picked open,
A hasp that binds, seemingly broken.
Just four levers decoded true,
Leaving false hope for the top two.
Three pieces in operation,
A pick, key, wrench, all in unison.
Setting two tumblers correct,
A free moving hasp the object.
A lock decoded properly,
A key machined creatively.
All steps providing a reward,
A beautiful padlock unscarred.
One more lock now in collection,
Always striving for perfection.



SLAYMAKER, Hasp stamped, 106 (top),SJ (left), I (right). Bits cut via drill press.

Nice.
What material did you use for the key?

See the pictorial in Chapter 2 of my book. All my flat keys are made from this.

Got it, thanks.
Was just curious because I seemed to recall that sometimes in the past I've seen you experiment with various different alloys but I didn't remember the specifics.
I must have been thinking about what you used on different types of locks.

Finally, I made a key for this Eagle "Favorite" pancake.
Originally opened by hasp tension and decoded.
A bit pattern tested, only lost by mistake.
A lock cleaned, oiled and no longer corroded,
Making the first technique too difficult to repeat.
A second chance at decoding using one wire and a caliper.
Depths interpreted in .025 inch increments, waivering defeat.
Finishing with my homemade keyblank and special decoder adapter.

Lauren love the new style of post. kudos mate!