Lauren's Antique Padlock Restoration

[Riyame]

Wow, that is some really cool work. Nice find on the early padlock.

[Lauren]

This early Daniel K. Miller padlock was a great find on Ebay. The lock was obtained without a key and in the closed position. Lucky for me, someone else had already asked a question about shackle rebound, and the lock was in working order. This padlock has some great history as noted on the shackle "U.S. INT. REV. 7356". It's unclear to me when miller stopped producing the plain-faced padlocks, but if I had to guess, it probably was around the time when logo embossing was the fancy thing to do. Such locks were "MILLER'S 6 LEVER" and "CHAMPION". Nevertheless, this padlock was one the first Miller pancake locks.

The INTERNAL REVENUE ACT OF 1862 was a tax to pay for the CIVIL WAR, so this padlock probably was likely used on a cash box or other important documents as related to tax collecting. Miller's padlock was a great choice for a government process, not to be confused with the INTERNAL REVENUE SERVICE. This padlock could have been used as early as 1870 based on the patent date.

I was able to decode the padlock after four mathmatical attempts using my decoder and a .015 wire. I recommend this wire size for all CHAMPION style pancake locks along side with a .051 wire for contacting outside lever edges.

[Lauren]

Here's another MASTODON TEN LEVER that I received keyless in the closed posiiton. I picked the lock open and decoded the levers in both clockwise and counterclockwise. Each decode is different due to masterkeying. This key was made on my drillpress from solid steel stock and only works in the clockwise direction. You can learn similar key making techiniques in my book.

[Lauren]

I received this EAGLE TROJAN padlock yesterday (locked and without a key), and this morning I wasted no time decoding it. The latest technique I used is so incredibly simple and the temporary brass key works like a champ. The lock is in perfect working order. I will make another key in the near future.

[Lauren]

Today, I finished making my working key for a TROJAN EIGHT LEVERS by EAGLE LOCK COMPANY. The key design was scribed on blue steel plate material. All the bit cuts were done on my drill press free-handed against a mini-arbored disc cutter. This is some of best work yet, and it couldn't be trophied with a better padlock.

[MBI]

Looks like your latest one took a lot of work. Looks excellent.

[Riyame]

Just catching up on the last couple posts. Very nice work Lauren! The DK Miller and the Trojan are quite neat.

The work you do in making keys to these old locks is amazing.

[Lauren]

Believe it or not, the process to make a key blank only takes about an hour. The bit cuts (like that of the TROJAN) take more time, but I'm able to do it all free-handed now; no more locking the keys vertically in my slide vise.

[Lauren]

After 7 years of patiently waiting, I finally found an original set of "GIANT" keys for duplication purposes for my SMITH & EGGE padlocks. What a score--only .99 cents each on EBAY. The seller obviously didn't know the selling potential of these keys.

[Oldfast]

After 7 years of patiently waiting, I finally found an original set of "GIANT" keys for duplication purposes for my SMITH & EGGE padlocks. What a score--only .99 cents each on EBAY. The seller obviously didn't know the selling potential of these keys.

Ha! I love it. I consider myself a very patient ebayer.... but SEVEN YRS patient? I dunno. lol

[Lauren]

I used a special technique to open this A.E. DEITZ three lever padlock (a process dicussed in my book) marked "252" on the shackle using two carefully crafted wires. Then, I decoded the lock and made a key. You will notice some of the major components in this lock. The parts came from a broken padlock marked "252A" (barrel key version). This lock is not exactly easy to open using standard picking methods, which can also cause damage to the fence. This is why I prefer my method.

[Lauren]

I always wondered just how good these modern key blanks are for CHAMPION style 6 lever padlocks. Compared to my blanks, which I make from blue spring steel plate, these modern keys are somewhat disappointing. Notice in the second picture how alot of the plating has flaked off. I have experienced this problem with other Ilco blanks as well. The blanks look great until you cut them. The key I cut works great, but the width had to be filed down just to fit the keyway. So much for maintaining factory tolerences "key blank manufacturer guy". These blanks are merely convenient and are a softer steel designed for key machines (also explains why the key cut so fast). At least with my blanks, I can polish them to no end, and I don't have to worry about cheap chrome plating, because there is none with mine (LOL). It takes alot of work, but I think I will stick to my homemade blanks.

[Lauren]

Today, I was able to make use of my key blank intended for a newly obtained, SMITH & EGGE padlock. I see a lot of these locks with the shackle sort of half-opened. I believe this has to do with dirt obstructing the bolt, preventing full swing of the shackle. My newest lock (shown below) was in the locked position, without a key. These locks are push key design and are four lever. The outer levers one and four appear to hug close to the surface of the inside lock cases. As a result, the bits for levers two and three were deliberately cut wider to fill the width of the key. I used shackle tension to pick the lock open and made an impression of the levers with my UNITED STATES STREET LETTER decoding jig with the middle pin replaced with a short pin, which acted as a spacer. The lock works perfectly. I am amazed how these locks have undergone the passage of time and are still going. This is the third SMITH & EGGE padlock now in my collection.

[Riyame]

Your keys look amazing. It is a shame that the modern blanks are of low quality

[Lauren]

If there could be one company which made the everyday bronze, heart-shaped padlock more secure as a result of design and tolerances, then the title would have to go the line of padlocks called "FIRST QUALITY" once produced by the EAGLE LOCK COMPANY. Many of my followers know I enjoy collecting padlocks without keys. The process of making replacement keys always is a matter of decoding or picking, and sometimes a little of both. The lock shown below contains three lever tumblers with a rather thin ward plate between lever one and two. Similar padlocks (especially larger ones) will often contain four levers and sometimes two ward plates. The serrated edges on the lever tumblers make picking very difficult. Having the right tension tool makes all the difference. I discovered each tumbler gate can be felt independent of one another. This observation is important in order to create a mental map for elevating tumblers to their proper fence and gate alignment. There may be a variety of picking devices available in today's market intended for traditional lever tumbler padlocks, but their design specifics would not inspire me to pick my lock. The goal was to find a way to manipulate tumblers while optimizing tension control to the bolt. The answer rested with a special tension key (made from steel) and the insertion of a carefully crafted piano wire. The piano wire does not go through the keyway. Those of you who own my book know of my techniques and most likely have guessed what I did to pick this lock open.

In the end, this lock was very difficult to pick. This may be the reason why some locksmith-collectors kick the can down the road due to the level of difficulty and offer these locks up for sale. The good news, once the lock is open, ward placement and bit heights mark very easily with the use of a black marker. What a pleasure it was using this technique. My barrel key was made from aluminum-bronze bar stock, machined entirely on my drill press. I believe this is the allure people have about my work. Not everyone can build a ship in a bottle, but if they can't then just owning the work will have to do. Perhaps, this is why my book has been successful.






"FIRST QUALITY" 10V103