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This railroad or (road?) signal padlock was purchased for $25.00 in the locked position and without a key. I wrote about these E.T. Fraim padlocks in my book. I never had the opportunity to discuss the barrel key version, until now. This lock has no number stamped on body to indicate any code for future reference, and there is no space to shim the two levers that lock the shackle heel and the three interlocking levers (I don't like that technique anyway and the method only works when there is enough space between the lock body and the shackle). This lock is actually very easy to pick and the entire process can be done through the drain hole and keyway (no special key needed for pick assistance). I used a strong spring placed between the shackle and the lock body to provide shackle tension (a little trick I thought myself). Two L-wires were wedged on levers one and five before picking the three interlocking levers.

My barrel key was machined from aluminum-bronze from grinding discs. Only two drill bits were used to make holes. The lock opens at the nine o'clock position as the key is rotated clockwise. The key can fully rotate 360 degrees. I like making my keys more beefy than the originals. I guess every artist puts their own signature on their work. Ironically, this antique padlock was manufactured in Lancaster, PA and the key was made today in Lancaster, CA.

Can you please upload the photos directly to the KP site. Off shore image hosting ensures the images will be lost.

How beautiful! That is one rock-solid key with a gorgeous finish.

The two should be great companions for many MANY yrs to come.

Brilliant work there Lauren. Really

As far as lost photos are concerned, it hurt me to have to remove them. Nothing was done outside of my own hand. Seven years of intellectual property between three lock forum sites... The pictures conflicted with my book...sorry.

This brass clad, EAGLE padlock is no longer in my collection (because I took it apart). So, there will be no nice looking key to show or techniques to discuss. When I received this lock the other day, I quickly discovered three interlocking levers, visible at nine o'clock that were frozen. Now, some of you padlock restorers out there know exactly what to do in this situation. It's just something I would expect with an iron clad padlock. The problem is really in the design and use of the padlock over the years. This lock has no drain hole for water to release. This would imply the lock was never meant for exterior use. The patina on my lock indicates lock was used outdoors or left in very damp conditions. EAGLE placed two steel plates, one on top of lever one, and one below lever three that form the bread around the lever stack. Over time the plates rusted sufficiently building a wall, and preventing the levers from gliding. Also, there is a dedicated rivet that holds the lever stack in place. Levers can not be easily removed with the top lock case removed. The lever pin is riveted from the inside and a portion of this rivet is visible from the bottom case. This explains the difference in rivet heads between both side of the lock cases.

So, this EAGLE padlock is just another lock that I would strongly admonish a would-be buyer to ask questions about lever movement. You probably will see more of these locks being sold without keys than ones with keys due to the rusting problem. I hope my $18.00 sacrifice will help other collectors in the future. I just don't like non-working locks in my collection. In the end, I recommend a good rust remover to get this lock working again.

Gut shots?! WHAT? WHO?

..... Oh.

Boy, that's a dirty trick. LOL
Leading with a line like that.

Good info on the Eagle padlock. Is that info going in the next edition if your book?

No, I'm done writing books. The fourth edition is the finally.

Hmm. Then I guess it looks like it might be time to start saving my pennies again. If this is the final revision then I guess it's time to buy myself another copy so I can get the chapters you added.

Thanks again for all the pictures and material you've shared with us here. Antique locks are such a massive segment in the world of collector locks, but it's the area where my experience has been most lacking. It's been nice to be able to start filling in those gaps in knowledge. I've especially appreciated the tips for how to keep from getting burned when buying collector locks from eBay (and elsewhere), spotting fakes, commonly broken items to watch for, etc.

Thanks for the kind words Oldfast and MBI. I had a choice this afternoon to watch Netflix or do this..........work in progress.

Hi Lauren:

Wonderful work as always and I unabashedly admit I'm a little jealous of your skills. I was about to comment on the broken links at the start of the thread but I see you pulled them so as not to conflict with your book.
I went to blurb to finally make a much overdue order of a copy (definitely hardcover) seeing as you've stated the fourth edition will be your final, but my old saved link no longer works so could you please post a working link so I (and others) may place an order.

Thanks in advance:
Mike

Here's the link: http://www.blurb.com/b/6565733-the-extr ... -collector

DAY TWO: AFTER WORK MAN CAVE TIME.

Like the art of a stone mason, the key begins to take on more shape, releasing it from the stone. All done on my drill press with a perfect barrel extension. More to come.

Looking great. Can't wait to see it when it is finished.

Indeed! Wow. You call it 'art'. I concur