Old YALE push key padlock

[DCT]

Hi Guys,
This YALE padlock appears to be in decent condition.
It has no key but I plan to impression one for it.
So far, I have been unable to SPP it.
Was considering applying some lube but I don't wish to do that before impressioning if I can help it.
On the front of the hasp it is stamped "canadian Yale & Towne LTD".
On the back of the hasp it is stamped "St.Catherines, Ontario".
The inscription above the keyway is difficult to make out.
From what I have been able to learn online it appears to be a "push key" style lock.
Does any one happen to know any more about this lock?
I really like it as it was made not too far from where I am located and it seems like a neat little piece of history:)

[Riyame]

If you have the thin shim stock you can just shim those from the front.

[DCT]

Thanks Riyami,
I have thin shim:)
So when I get all the pins set to shear line I just push on the cylinder/pull on the hasp?
You wouldn't happen to know the shoulder length for the keys these locks use would you?

[Oldfast]

I agree, shimming 'em is about the best way to go. They can sometimes be difficult to pick.

This one is a different brand I realize... but it should at least help with disassembly after you shim it.
Usually the biggest pain in the ass is unscrewing the collar without messing up that beautiful patina.

Sorry, I don't know anything as to what key you need. Beautiful lock though! Keep us updated

[DCT]

Thanks Oldfast,
That's very helpful!
I didn't realize the collar unscrewed although I did wonder how to get it apart!
Preserving the finish on this one will take priority over gutting it as long as I succeed in impressioning a key for it.

[Lauren]

Once you get the lock shimmed open, you will need a piece of 1/4 inch square rod with sharp corners to unthread the cap on the hasp hole. This is similar to removing the seat out of valve stem in many plumbing fixtures. There will be a folded piece of spring steel that you need to shift outward. This metal is what retains the plug and gives it spring action. It's a lot easier to dismantle the plug then it is to put it back together. The seat must centered properly with the spring, or it can become damaged.

[DCT]

Thanks Lauren,
I have some 1/4" key stock on hand:)

[GWiens2001]

Impressioning can be tricky. Remember - no tension wrench when picking, and do not turn the key when impressioning. Fully insert the key blank, then pull the shackle to tension the plug. Then wiggle the blank to get your marks. Release shackle tension before pulling out the key.

If you look at the side of the lock (on the same side of the lock as the plug), and look carefully, you can see the caps over the pin channels. Hold your blank with the shoulder on the bottom of the lock, and voila... pin spacing!

On a side note, sometimes the brass fitting that the shackle tied its into has a lot of crud in it, making it hard to use the 1/4" square stock to turn it. Clean it out and you should be good. Have also seen the sides of the square rounded, too. In that case, use a spiral broken screw/bolt extractor to turn it.

Gordon

[DCT]

Thanks Gordon,
I hadn't noticed the caps but now that you mention it they are faintly visible.
Any chance you can tell me the correct key blank to use on this lock?

Everybody has been very helpful! Thanks Everybody!

[Oldfast]

Lauren & Gordon....

great tip on the 1/4 inch stock for removing the cap. I didn't know that!

The lock that I had worked on and linked to above: I had noticed four
marks inside the cap from someone previously removing it but wasn't
sure what sort of tool would have made them. Must have been that!

Could either of you elaborate for me? Where did you get the stock?
What kinda metal is best? Is it difficult to find square stock that doesn't
have rounded corners? I'm assuming it must fit so tightly that it needs
to be tapped in? Then put some vice grips on it to turn?

I'd also suggest using some Tri-Flow. It does really well in the wicker test.
Meaning, it climbs through threads like crazy. Should help free up the cap.

[GWiens2001]

The square stock is not too hard to find. A hard steel is best. Sometimes it takes some torque to get it to break free, and weaker metal will bend or round off.

Gordon

[Oldfast]

Very good. I'll take a look around next time I'm out.

Man, lol, I've been going about this the wrong way.
I've had some that I battled for days before. lol

[Lauren]

I bought some crappy letter and number stamps from Harbor Freight. I like to grind down this material with a slight tapper until it fits nicely inside the cap. More often then not, there will be no original indents left inside the cap, most likely due to wear. As a collector, I always seek out locks with the original indents.

[DCT]

Great information.
Thank you everyone!

[Oldfast]

ORIGINAL indents you say?
So they start out brand new with those four indentations?
Geesh, I had know idea. Learn something new every day!

Thanks Lauren.