Old YALE push key padlock

[oldbiscuit]

For key blanks, I use ILCO 1031 and for shims I use .015 feeler gauge. If you want to give the keys an aged appearance after your done, you can use cold bluing to darken them. I have SPP them, but like others have said, it's a pain in the arse. I usually clamp the body in a padded vise and slide a round tapered wedge in the shackle to apply tension, it works, but it's hard to judge how much tension your applying. Shimming is so much easier and faster, I can usually open one in under 5 minutes this way. Mark

[DCT]

For key blanks, I use ILCO 1031 and for shims I use .015 feeler gauge. If you want to give the keys an aged appearance after your done, you can use cold bluing to darken them. I have SPP them, but like others have said, it's a pain in the arse. I usually clamp the body in a padded vise and slide a round tapered wedge in the shackle to apply tension, it works, but it's hard to judge how much tension your applying. Shimming is so much easier and faster, I can usually open one in under 5 minutes this way. Mark

Thanks Mark,
I will track down one of those blanks.
Regarding the feeler gauge I was trying with a piece of .001" do you think its too thin?
I have only been able to get 3 pins this way so far.
It just so happens that I have some cold blue so that will work out nicely:)
Your round wedge idea sounds good.
I had a piece of paracord through the hasp and around my leg which was rather awkward.

[GWiens2001]

Or do the cloth covered vice and use a cloth covered screwdriver to lever the shackle.

Gordon

[oldbiscuit]

If you have 3 pins shimmed, it should be very easy to apply pulling tension and SPP the last pin, I know I've done this myself in the past. As far as using .001 shim, I've had to use that size before, it depends how tight the clearance is. Actually I even use .002 quite often, if the space allows. . Mark

[DCT]

Or do the cloth covered vice and use a cloth covered screwdriver to lever the shackle.

Gordon

I just happen to have all those ingredients on hand;)

[DCT]

If you have 3 pins shimmed, it should be very easy to apply pulling tension and SPP the last pin, I know I've done this myself in the past. As far as using .001 shim, I've had to use that size before, it depends how tight the clearance is. Actually I even use .002 quite often, if the space allows. . Mark

That last pin wasn't feeling co-operative.
It seemed to require a lot of pressure.
I think it's time to add the lube.

[GWiens2001]

If you have 3 pins shimmed, it should be very easy to apply pulling tension and SPP the last pin, I know I've done this myself in the past. As far as using .001 shim, I've had to use that size before, it depends how tight the clearance is. Actually I even use .002 quite often, if the space allows. . Mark

That last pin wasn't feeling co-operative.
It seemed to require a lot of pressure.
I think it's time to add the lube.

Keep in mind that many of these used serrated key pins and mushroom driver pins. Also, the fourth pin is frequently oversize in diameter and can not be lifted above the shear line.

Gordon

[DCT]

When you say the 4th pin cannot be lifted above the shear line does that mean its max lifted height is the shear line?

[GWiens2001]

Look at the fourth pin channel (furthest to the right). Notice it is of a larger diameter than the others.



Here are the pins. In this picture, the fourth pin is furthest to the left. Notice it is of a larger diameter than the others. (key pins are on top, driver pins are underneath).



You can not see it well in the picture above, but ALL of the pins in the picture are lightly serrated. And gotta love the true mushroom pins with serrations. Those are why the locks can be a real pain to pick. Too bad they were so easy to shim.

The pin channels in the lock body are all the diameter of the driver pins. The fourth pin will not fit into the pin channel of the lock body, so the pin can only be lifted to the height of the shear line, and not above it. That is why the key looks like it does at the tip...



That explain it?

Keep in mind that not all of the Yale PKPT locks had that feature on the fourth pin, but many did.

Gordon

[DCT]

Thank you very much Gordon!
That does indeed explain it!
In that last picture there's a key, would you happen yo have access to it to measure the shoulder length?
Your assistance is greatly appreciated!
That goes for everyone here as well.

[GWiens2001]

As stated above, look at the side of the lock, and you can see exactly where the pins are. Hold the key so the shoulder is hooked on the bottom of the lock, and use a very fine tip marker to mark the locations of the pins.

I do have another lock (that one went to another member), but it could take a couple of hours of going through my locks to find them. Have a few locks around here, so it could take a while. Painting the house interior, so don't have time at the moment.

Gordon

[Oldfast]

If you're having trouble getting the last couple pins shimmed, it might help to 'pulsate' the shim
as you're slowly lifting the pin stack. In other words, pull the shim back off the pin just slightly,
then push into it again and again as you lift the stack. This keeps your shim from possibly
getting caught in the deep portion of a mushroom pin. Worked well for me yesterday.

Thanks for the great discussion you've generated here... I've certainly learned some things!

[GWiens2001]

One problem that you may be experiencing is due to the mushroom pins. The same problem occurs with spool pins - you may be pushing the shim into the narrow section of the mushroom pin, and the pin can not raise above the shim. Back the shim off the pin a little bit, then use a hook or other pick to lift the key pin all the way up. Then slide the shim forward until it stops at the key pin. Then pulse the shim in and out (fgarci... stop it!!!) while lowering the pick holding up the key pin gradually. Then the shim can slip between the pins without getting caught in the narrow section of the mushroom pin.

The same method works for spool pins.

Gordon

EDIT: Oldfast's method and mine for shimming the lock are pretty much the same. The method he mentions starts with the key pins at the fully down position and is also my preferred method. But if the security pins make it a pain, then the method I mention helps by starting the key pins all the way up.

[DCT]

As stated above, look at the side of the lock, and you can see exactly where the pins are. Hold the key so the shoulder is hooked on the bottom of the lock, and use a very fine tip marker to mark the locations of the pins.

I do have another lock (that one went to another member), but it could take a couple of hours of going through my locks to find them. Have a few locks around here, so it could take a while. Painting the house interior, so don't have time at the moment.

Gordon

Good idea Gordon,
I know life is hectic and I appreciate the time you have given despite your workload!

[DCT]

If you're having trouble getting the last couple pins shimmed, it might help to 'pulsate' the shim
as you're slowly lifting the pin stack. In other words, pull the shim back off the pin just slightly,
then push into it again and again as you lift the stack. This keeps your shim from possibly
getting caught in the deep portion of a mushroom pin. Worked well for me yesterday.

Thanks for the great discussion you've generated here... I've certainly learned some things!

Thanks Oldfast,
I will give that a shot!
I'm glad your enjoying the learning as well:)