MrPharmer2012 wrote:I can document the steps I take for you guys but I wont be selling the pieces, I have bought the actual blocks also I plan to cut a key on each the printed block and the original and compare the two. machine should come today parts from framon should come monday or tuesday
Good job on making the blocks! The marks don't have to be too precise - the idea is that you're pretty close to the correct value, and can use the dial to exactly set the spacing.
Perhaps an explanation is in order.
Here's the gcode enry for standard Schlage keys. The spacing is 0.156, so we should use block 1, but really if it's a bit off it doesn't matter too much. To start, I wind the carriage all the way to the left, and set it to 0 - since the first entry is 0.231, I turn the knob 4 full turns (that's 200, since it moves 50 each rotation) and then set it to 31, so it's at 231. I then move the block using the knob that moves the block so it's on the rightmost mark. The marks then match the location of the spaces for the pins. I load the blank in, set the depth, and cut the key. Once the first cut is made, I rotate the knob 3 times until it lines up with the second mark, then precisely adjust the spacing. Cut two is at 387, so the dial will read 37, and be lined up with the mark.
If you purchase the Framon machine new, it comes with a dial caliper that works well, but I use an HPC straight yoke micrometer for calibration. Once calibrated it's good, but I always check when changing cutters. There's a Schlage specific cutter (which I have and use) but keys cut with the universal cutter work OK.
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:19 am
