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Posted: **Sun Mar 23, 2014 9:00 pm**

That is correct, Oldfast. Have found the same thing. And as expected with pin wear, the closer to the keyway, the more wear there is on the pins.

Gordon

Posted: **Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:35 am**

Yeah Gordon, that's a great point for others to keep in mind. I know it seems
obvious enough... but when I was just starting out, it was not apparent to me.

The first pin must ride over EVERY peak on the key upon entry and removal.
The last pin however rides over only ONE peak each time the key is used.

So the majority of wear occurs on the pins towards the front of the lock
and becomes progressively less so on the pins deeper toward the back.

Posted: **Tue Mar 25, 2014 7:32 pm**

Just another lil' ol' padlock put back into circulation by a lowly lock-lover

Underneath the weather casing was some laminated off-brand 40mm using an M1 keyway.
I first impressioned it to get the depths. Then used my S&D keys to cut a couple more.

And look Gordon!... I was able to use a couple keys from our spoils of war.

I thought the matching blue might be a nice touch. hehee.

Posted: **Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:02 pm**

Oldfast wrote:
Just another lil' ol' padlock put back into circulation by a lowly lock-lover

Underneath the weather casing was some laminated off-brand 40mm using an M1 keyway.
I first impressioned it to get the depths. Then used my S&D keys to cut a couple more.

And look Gordon!... I was able to use a couple keys from our spoils of war.
I thought the matching blue might be a nice touch. hehee.

Do you want a laugh, Mike? I impressioned a Popular Mechanics padlock today, too.

However, being at work, did not have my blanks with me. Have HUNDREDS of blanks at home, but none of this keyway at work. What did I use?

Wiper inserts! What else would I use? This only works for making a key that lines up from the center of the keyway to the uppermost ward - the straight part of the keyway. Have done this before, but this time took pictures for a writeup when there is time.

Did not have my pipin file, and would not use it on steel even if I did, so used some standard files in my tool box. It is trickier impressioning on steel without the full key blank. Give it a try, Oldfast! Great fun.

The wiper key opens the lock just as smoothly as a real key would. :mrgreen:

Gordon

Posted: **Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:46 am**

Haha! That's pretty slick actually.

Yeah, I remember you had done this before.

The marks pretty obvious on spring steel then?

Posted: **Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:59 am**

Oldfast wrote:Haha! That's pretty slick actually.

Yeah, I remember you had done this before.

The marks pretty obvious on spring steel then?

Brass pins do not make marks on spring steel. Used a marker. Also can not apply turning tension to bind the pins using the insert - have to use a tension wrench to apply tension, then twist the steel from side to side a little. Will explain more when I get to the writeup.

Gordon

Posted: **Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:59 pm**

Ah yes, that all makes sense. Lookin' forward to the write-up.

This could really come in handy with some locks.

Posted: **Sun Mar 30, 2014 4:48 pm**

American Rotary Tools Company, Inc... is anyone familiar with this company?

Early on in this thread we were talking about file cards and how it was odd that you'd rarely
see them for sale right next to the impressioning files. We're not talking about the course
bristled file cards, but the file brush for the finer cut files like the #4, #6, or #8 cuts.

So I came across one here and thought some of you might be interested.
I currently use an old hard bristled tooth brush (which probably works just as good),
but I think I might purchase one anyway. I can't seem to figure out what their shipping
costs are though. So I'll probably give em' a call tomorrow. Has anyone purchased from em'?

Posted: **Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:45 pm**

This is what I use.
I was shown this in my wachmaking class. Used to remove rust from watch parts.
In jewelry, we used them to clean precious metals off our files.
Works great but wears faster than a standard card.

http://www.micromark.com/ultra-micro-fi ... ,7850.html

M.

Posted: **Sun Mar 30, 2014 7:24 pm**

Oldfast, if you click on Shipping Policy at the bottom of the page you linked to, you'll see what they charge.

Posted: **Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:55 pm**

Deadlock wrote:Oldfast, if you click on Shipping Policy at the bottom of the page you linked to, you'll see what they charge.

Ha! Thanks Deadlock. I knew it had to be SOMEWHERE on the page! Figured it was just my stupidity. lol

Altashot... I like that thing! I could see it coming in handy for more than just cleaning files too. Thanks

Posted: **Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:25 pm**

Oldfast wrote:
Deadlock wrote:Oldfast, if you click on Shipping Policy at the bottom of the page you linked to, you'll see what they charge.

Ha! Thanks Deadlock. I knew it had to be SOMEWHERE on the page! Figured it was just my stupidity. lol

Altashot... I like that thing! I could see it coming in handy for more than just cleaning files too. Thanks

Like brushing your teeth. It really removes plaque! :-o

Gordon

Posted: **Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:45 pm**

Good ol' Lock Goblin.... lol... always thinking OUTSIDE the box :mrgreen:

Posted: **Sun Apr 06, 2014 12:40 pm**

Oldfast,
Not sure about Hurd padlocks, but found some code series on the really old Ford auto locks that use Hurd (I knew those blanks looked familiar) and also some cabinet handles. The increments of the depth cuts all seem to be .020". The spacing from the shoulder or bow varies, but most of the space between cuts is .095" with a few being .125" between cuts. The blanks for Ford auto look really similar to those blanks you used on the padlock and I wouldn't be surprised if you could use the auto blank as a substitute. You do make some nice looking keys.
I have made hundreds, maybe thousands of keys by impression and none of mine look that good.

Mike H (loktek)

Posted: **Sun Apr 06, 2014 6:35 pm**

Appreciate the info Mike! Hope it maybe helps some other people too.

Thanks for taking a look through my progression here. When I first starting
picking I didn't necessarily see myself getting into impressioning....
nor did I realize I'd enjoy it as much as I do.

loktek wrote:You do make some nice looking keys.
I have made hundreds, maybe thousands of keys by impression and none of mine look that good.

Thanks so much for the props. I put a lot of time into them.
But I know I still have A LOT of experience to gain still.

I'll be doin' much better when I can say this....lol...

loktek wrote:....I have made hundreds, maybe thousands of keys by impression....

Surely you find success more often, and much quicker than I

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