Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:02 pm by jruther2
whizdumb81 wrote:jruther2 wrote:I know Mul-T-Locks are old hat for some of the advanced fellas here but this was a HUGE rush for me. I've had this thing for way too long! I was starting to think that Mul-T-Locks might stay on my not picked list forever but I finally got it picked once
I discovered that my tension wrench was the problem all this time 
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Here's a couple of pics...enjoy!
I was wondering if you could elaborate on the tension wrench issue you were having.. What kind of problems was it causing you? And how did you overcome that problem? Is there anything you recommend when it come to tensioning this particular type of lock?
Sorry for all the questions.. You sparked my curiosity.
Happy Picking,
Whizdumb
If you click on the first picture and zoom in on it you can see a lip just inside the keyway (right below the 'M' in mul-t-lock in the pic) that is part of the cylinder housing. I was Originally using a standard twist flex tw and discovered that it was binding on the inside of the cylinder. I used a tok tw inside the keyway just above that lip to ensure that it would not bind and prevent the plug from turning. Once I did that the difference was amazing...pins actually started to feel like they were binding and setting as opposed to giving very light clicks, never setting properly, and always having a kind of spongy feeling to them as opposed to springy. I hope that makes sense.
KokomoLock wrote:Great Job, It was great when I finally poped my Interactive padlock open, I am not good enough to do it on command yet, but I will get there!!! Did you get the super huge false set before you got it picked?????
Thanks.
Yes, I did get the super huge false set. However, I feel that I got so hung up on looking for it that it probably prevented me from picking the lock sooner. Kinda like when a new picker puts all his efforts into getting a false set on their first spool pin lock...the false set consumes you and you forget the basics...feel for a binding pin then set it and move on. Picking this thing sounded really easy in my head. I thought, hey its just a five pin lock with big pins then another five pin lock with smaller pins that I don't have to worry about until I get the big ones picked and it will be obvious because of the huge false set. I guess that really is the situation, but it wasn't as easy as it sounds for me. I don't know if its the best way but what I do is use fairly heavy tension to set the outer pins so that there is a great distinction between the sound and feel of the serrations crossing the shear line and when the pin is actually set. With this lock, once I have 'set' all of the outer pins applying heavy tension I did not immediately get the huge false...I had to then lighten way up on my tension and start lightly touching the pins while almost bouncing the tension from light to practically none. Doing this would eventually lead to the huge false. Now it may be different with other mul-t-locks, as this is the first one I've picked, but that's how I got to there. After that I kept the tension very light and started working the inner pins noting that some needed to give two clicks before they were truly set. Its also worth mentioning that often I would only have to set two or three of the inner pins after the huge false in order for the lock to open...I assume this has something to do with the particular bitting for this lock.
"An honest man is one who knows that he can't consume more than he has produced."
all the ones I hae are pin in pin, Id like to try a regular one before I tackle the pin in Pin ones
