So, like I said, I finally got to pick this safe up from the seller. I looked it over during pickup, and noted a spot where it looked like it had been drilled, and talked with the owner a bit about the safe. He offered for me to take it for free, but I gave him a small sum just for holding it for me, and still stuck to my offer to send him the rest of what he had into it if I got it open.
I found the contact points at 31 and 41, as the lock was mounted vertical down with a standard spline index. The contact points were pretty weak, but I found them easier to feel with the safe down on its side, gravity helping the fence to drop.
Preliminary freespinning in the trunk of the car (couldn't wait, lol!) got me what I thought was a gate at around 62 going AWR. High/low indicated the gate on both wheels 1 and 2, but wheel isolation testing showed nothing, as did parking 1 and 2 on 62R and brute forcing wheel 3 . I decided to graph it out once I had more time and a better setup. Also, what I thought was an old drill point was actually just part of the manufacturer's machining.
Manipulating the lock while lying on the floor on my side was different. I used good lighting, a needle index, an Optivisor, and a pillow(!). I could distinctly feel the flies of wheel 2 and 3 picking up 10 units before the wheels picked up. At first I thought this might present a problem, but it turned out the wheels still picked up consistently, so the flies were not actually sticking.
So, with faint contact points (and contact points actually vanishing between 45 and 58 in AWL rotation), draggy flies, and something clanking around inside of this "empty" safe when rolled around, when nothing was showing at first, I was seriously thinking I might be in the market for a 16" screwdriver! The horrible "D-word" was beginning to enter my psyche. Casting that thought aside, I pressed on.
I had to chart the low areas, and park in those areas before gates became plainly visible. But, she eventually yielded, and I got her open. It turned out that the clanking sound was due to a 1/4" thick asbestos plate floor that was loose. There was also a change key inside (yay).
Here is the lock...
The underside of the door, and the bolt...
Something of concern, a cracked bolt. Not a lockout concern as long as the safe can be tipped on its side, though.......
The underside of the lock shows the modifications made to link with the bolt...
Also, in cleaning I found the dial ring is molded with a curb to keep debris out of the locking mechanism. I didn't know they made special rings for floor safes...
And, yes; I did send the seller the check for the balance!