A few new/favourite tools
The second problem is holding the blade properly. You cannot put the thin material in a drill vise without a backing as it will bend and flex so that the hole is slanted or the break-through will otherwise screw up the hole. I use a 5" X 5", half-inch piece of aluminum on the drill table which works fine except trying to clamp the piece down is awkward. The solution is a hold-down or toggle clamp which applies a 200 lb. force directly down on the pick, allowing accurate drilling.
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A long while back when I was making knives I obtained some jeweller's saw blades from a local company that is no longer in business. When I started to run low it became apparent that the manufacturer (Herkules) no longer offers this particular blade. Most jewellers use a round blade but these are flat and were used by die-sinkers because they cut straighter and are so thin that you can actually cut a thin bolt for example, without having to clean up the threads.
After several hours on the net I found a company called Artco (American Rotary Tools Company) that had some remaining stock. They had only one 12 blade package of the 42.212 size I had been using, but the next size down was nearly the same, (.0086" X .1060") so I ordered three more packages.
http://www.artcotools.com/herkules-flat-sawblades.html
I often use aluminum or brass parts on my picks and have been less than satisfied with securing these parts with epoxy or crazy glue. Fortunately I was able to find a low temperature solder (http://www.gesswein.com/p-3561-silver-s ... =&perpage=) that comes in a pre-mixed paste and is 5 times stronger than ordinary solder. It melts at 475 degrees F which means that a quick soldering job with a pencil torch will not over-heat the pick and affect the temper. A test showed that it works perfectly: