Cooper wrote:....with tension on the dial it moved similar to how a Masterlock combination lock moves when you tug on the shackle. A Masterlock does this because it has a very primitive "anti-manipulation" device built in. The first fly wheel is shaped like a cog. This means that it gives a series of "false" indicators as you attempt to manipulate it....
Dunno if this would help or not, but: With my Sentry safe I've noticed I'm able to differenciate true from false on that wheel.
Each time the boltwork drops into one of these gates, I leave the tension on, then move the wheel back and forth. You can
actually feel the boltwork drag/scrape across the bottom of the shallow gate if it false. When I come across the true gate,
there is no drag because the gate is deeper... it's the true gate.
If this would even work on a safe like this, I dunno... maybe worth a try.
You may have to isolate the wheel, or even park the other ones in low areas.
Really enjoying following your journey. Keep it up!
Also, I think you've done a great job with your testing to tryn' determine which wheels your possible gates are on.
If your results are not definitive enough though, you can always couple it with a second test. Choose a high test
number and run it... then choose a low test number and run it. (10 higher & 10 lower than the indication maybe).
If the test results coincide with each other, you can be that much more certain as you proceed.
Another thing you could try is to isolate a particular wheel and see if your indication still appears when running it.
In other words, if you think 91 is on w2... then run
only w2, keeping wheels 1 & 3 parked in the same position
each time you take a reading on w2. If the indication still occurs, you can be certain it's on w2 since it's the
only one you're moving. Keep in mind though, this is not an absolute method. There's always a chance that
one or more wheels are in a high area, not allowing a gate on another to be read.