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I'm impressed with both your keys and the photos you've taken of them. They all come out so pretty.

When I first started trying this in my shop, the other guys thought I was nuts. They watched and chuckled with satisfaction as I ruined several blanks. No one was more surprised than I was the first time that one of my battered keys actually turned the lock. The most satisfying thing is that now my co-workers are trying to develop the skill.

We do this in a poorly lit shop without magnification, and usually with nothing more than two screwdrivers and a round file. This probably contributes to my high failure rate.

Most certainly! Good work & enthusiasm is ALWAYS welcome on my threads How exciting, right?!

I've gotta say... I'm impressed with both the lock and the key! That's a hell of a lock for your first impression,
and your cuts look FAR better than mine did the first time around. My first lock was a little 4-pin Master...
I had really no knowledge of impressioning, just heard of it. It didn't take me an hour... but HOUR(S). lol
I know all too well that feeling of doubt half-way in... you start wondering if you missed something along
the way... but you think, "what the hell, I'll let it play out". I still get that feeling. It actually adds to the
excitement when that key turns and you realize you didn't mess up. Thanks for sharing Caveman!

I also wanted to mention; I've got a key to a working state before....
then (in my quest for perfection) I "fine tuned" it right into not working LOL!
But yeah, there's always a little more work to be had after that key turns the first time.


Gringo. Given the tools you have to work with, I'm always so impressed with what you can accomplish.
Your stories of how things are done there are always interesting and I've really enjoyed hearing about it.
I agree with what others have already said; I'm certain you're developing skills that will serve you VERY well
here in the states. I also think that when you get your hands on some proper tools... you're gonna work that
shit like magic!!!

Some circumstances have left me turning/jiggling the key with an allen wrench or screwdriver. Certainly
can be done... but you're right; I'm sure it draws from your chances of success. A good solid hold on the
key (and the lock) are probably two of the biggest factors in this game.

And Gordon - Thanks for the info and link. I've really not settled on a preference for magnification,
so I might go over there and take a look around. I've tried a variety (head gear, glasses, hand held),
and also different powers of magnification. I just dunno yet. I like it when I don't need it at all. lol


Good point! I've a LONG ways to go in order to refine my sight or feel for 'reading' the pins...
but I'm sure it could be VERY advantageous. Currently, I feel my way thru the lock with a hook
after picking it to get a general picture of the hi-low bitting. But again, this gives me a very,
VERY rough sketch of the bitting. I should work on this more. I'll also try 'reading' the pins
through sight as you mentioned. Thanks

yIPPIE DOGPILE JUMP IN....


wHA? ITS OVER....

too late

Haha! Late to the party or not... I'm always eager to hear your thoughts Rai
I'm glad some people are chiming in. Hints & tips that come only with
experience (of which, I have little) are always helpful when starting.

Caveman; it's easy to let one get away from you. Keep a careful eye on where your marks are -
if you find one is not quite centered in the deepest part of a cut... direct your efforts towards
that side of the cut with your next couple strokes. In other words, your placing a little more
weight with your file to one side of the cut to bring it back in line under the pin. But yeah,
I'd assume simply putting lines on the key would be very helpful and probably alleviate
the possibility of this occurring altogether. Keep up the good work & keep sharing it!

If I 'fine-tune' a key into not working, I stake it below where I fine-tuned it using a punch and the handle of a hammer or a center punch. Just a little bit at a time, on each side. This raises the metal a tiny bit, restoring operation. Then I use a micrometer and cut a new key to correct measurements.

I have also heard of solder used with some success for the same purpose. A little flux or rosin on the area to be raised helps to clean it and makes the solder stick better. It also is great if you can't see the impressioning marks due to the softness of the solder.

Best of luck with impressioning, folks!

Gordon

flux means flow in latin, but in jewelry, it usually means either boric acid or twenty mule team borax soap powder.
rosin is a flux for low melt solders for electronics.

flux does not clean metal nor is it part of the grip solder has.

solder only flow onto clean surfaces, so the surfaces have to be cleaned of finger oils and all other dirt.

when heat is applied, borax quickly melts into a liquid glass, this keeps the surface sealed from air which can oxidize metal quickly under heat, the solder will flow into the liquid borax glass, and displace it. this is probably about the surface tensions of both the liquid solder and the liquid flux. the heavier solder lifts the liquid borax glass and flows under it onto the hot and clean metal where it bonds. the borax is easily removed from the metal by dilute sulpheric acid

Beautiful!! The keys look like they came from the factory...amazing.

Damn man, you are getting really good! Those keys look amazing.

Oh man, those look great! Thanks Oldfast!

Awesome!

Thanks guys. One of my biggest problems is resisting the urge to 'tweak' the looks
of a key after it's functioning perfectly lol. Can mess things up sometimes. ha!

I just received the locks that were sent to me and the keys work really smooth! I've used factory cut keys that aren't as smooth as these